My trick for making onions crisp and juicy

 My trick for making onions crisp and juicy

On my site, along with cucumbers and tomatoes, I prefer to plant onions. Firstly, such a neighborhood helps to collect salad directly from the garden in a matter of minutes, and secondly, the onion itself is an excellent product in cooking and an excellent remedy for colds. Having collected the harvest, I put it in a ventilated bag and store it until the next season. Over the years of growing this vegetable, I have accumulated a lot of useful experience, which I hasten to share. A properly grown onion turns out to be crispy and very juicy. To achieve this, I follow just a few simple guidelines. And they all relate to the stages of feeding. After all, it is thanks to the introduction of the necessary substances that I manage to get such a high-quality crop in all respects. Good onions not only have a long shelf life, have an elegant appearance, but are also very healthy. From my own experience, I can say that one of the best fertilizers for onions is ash. Many consider it only a deoxidizer, but I argue that in addition to this, ash fertilizer contains a number of elements that help the growth of our plant. Feeding with ash I carry out in three stages:

  • when digging a bed;
  • during the growth of onions;
  • some time after the second stage.

I try to give my bow a good start even before planting, at the stage of preparing the ground. To do this, add ash to the beds being formed. As I said, in this way I also deoxidize the soil, and in a ph-neutral soil, the absorption of nutrients by onions, like any other vegetable, is much better. Enough 500-700 grams of fertilizer per one bed. Feeding with an ash solution during the active growth of the onion additionally helps it gain weight and juiciness. I add 1 kilogram of ash to a bucket of water. I recommend everyone to carry out this procedure on a pre-moistened soil in the evening. This will allow the fertilizer to be absorbed and stay in the soil for a long time, giving our plantings the strength to grow. Which in the end will lead to the formation of an amazing harvest, tasty and healthy. A few weeks after the second feeding, I add ash directly, and then water the soil abundantly. By following these simple techniques, you can secure yourself a supply of juicy crispy onions for the entire fall-spring period.

How to grow leeks correctly: mistakes of summer residents

Leeks are often undeservedly deprived of attention from domestic gardeners. Most people prefer to grow regular, onions, citing ease of care and stability of the crop.

However, leeks, although they require more attention and care, have a completely unique composition, while being an excellent addition to any fish or meat dish.

How to feed onions in spring

Fertilizers are applied depending on the purpose of growing onions. If a vegetable grows on a feather, it needs more nitrogen. When onions are grown per head, fertilizers should include more potassium and phosphorus. The best option is a combination of mineral-based preparations with organic matter.

Mineral fertilizers

Onions are fed with these fertilizers in moderation, since a large amount of minerals can lead to the accumulation of nitrates in the vegetable.

The most popular formulations include:

  • potassium: potassium nitrate, potassium chloride, potassium magnesium and potassium salt
  • nitrogen: most often choose urea, ammophos, ammonium nitrate, ammonium carbonate
  • phosphoric: precipitate, nitroammofosku, tomoslag, phosphate rock, superphosphate.


These fertilizers have a great effect on soil fertility, but they should not be concentrated. Organics are always diluted before use. Fertilizers include:

  • wood ash
  • peat
  • compost
  • bird droppings
  • humus
  • sapropel.

Purchased fertilizers

There is a wide range of complex fertilizers for onions on sale. Use them according to the attached instructions. The most popular fertilizers created to meet all the needs of onions during the growing season:

  • "Effecton"
  • "Citovit"
  • "Gumi"
  • "Reflex"
  • "Blank sheet"
  • Agricola-2.

Folk remedies

For feeding the culture, they use folk methods that are environmentally friendly, economical and affordable. Most often used:

  • baker's yeast
  • ammonia
  • infusions of nettle, woodlice, chamomile, milkweed, dandelion, burdock, comfrey, reed or clover.

Many gardeners choose this particular feeding option due to the availability of raw materials.

How to feed

As soon as the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil, the boxes must be rearranged to a cool place, the temperature in which does not exceed 12-15 degrees Celsius.

10 days after the transfer of the boxes, the onion must be fed. You can use both droppings (diluted in a ratio of 1 to 10 with water) and manure (1 to 6), but if you do not want unpleasant odors in the living room, you can do it differently. In 5 liters of water, dilute 10 g of potassium chloride, 5 g of ammonium nitrate and 20 g of superphosphate.

After another 2 weeks, feed the onions again, but now in a different way. Use an ash solution (take a teaspoon of ash per liter of water).

Repeat feeding at the same interval and do not forget to water the young onion in time.

It is better to plant onions in the beds prepared in the fall. In autumn, a bucket of rotted manure or humus, a bucket of peat and the same amount of compost, 20 g of azophoska and 30 g of superphosphate, per 1 sq.m., are introduced into the soil.

From mid-summer, uncoil the onion (remove the soil around the bulb, exposing it to one third). Also, do not pluck the feathers from the onion if you want large bulbs. Take your time with harvesting, let the onion ripen well.


Harvesting family onions can be started after about half of the feathers have faded. This happens by the end of July. If you skip the harvest time, then the already ripe bulbs will begin to absorb excess moisture from the soil, their growth process will be activated, and the rest period will accordingly be disrupted. And this will have a bad effect on the storage of the crop.

Shallots are best harvested on a sunny day. The dug out bulbs are left in the sun to dry well. In the evening, they are removed to a cool, dry, darkened room and left to dry for 2 weeks. During this time, the neck of the bulbs should be dry. To keep the onion well, it is better not to cut the feather and roots, but give them time to dry naturally.

Store shallots in a cool, moderately humid environment. As containers for storage, boxes, wicker baskets, fabric bags, nets for vegetables, nylon stockings are used. It is convenient to store onions in bundles or onion braids. This method is effective as it provides air access to each bulb. They are ventilated and practically do not come into contact with each other, which significantly reduces the risk of decay. Onion plaits take up little space, it is easy to inspect them and remove the onion that has begun to deteriorate in time. Beautifully woven bundles can also be used as room decor.

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Secrets of growing large onions

Greetings, dear friends!

Every gardener can achieve an excellent result in the form of a harvest of large heads of turnip onions. It is enough to adhere to the agricultural technique of culture and perform a number of simple manipulations throughout the season. So, I'll tell you today about the simple secrets of growing large onions in the garden and share some of the intricacies of caring for an onion plantation:

1. A bow whose head is formed in the ground does not tolerate heavy soils. If you have a dense soil saturated with clay on your site, then it should be loosened by introducing medium-grained river sand (1-3 buckets per square meter) and increased doses of organic matter (1-3 buckets of humus, peat or peat-manure compost per sq. . m). It also structures the soil well and pre-planting on the site, followed by plowing green manure crops into the ground, for example, winter or spring rapeseed, oats, legumes, mustard, alfalfa, clover.

2. Never add fresh manure or chicken droppings to the onion beds, only after composting. Incompletely rotted organic matter significantly reduces crop yield. It is also undesirable to use potassium chloride and other mineral compounds containing chlorine. Use potassium sulfate, as onions are responsive to additional sulfur, or regular ash, rich in phosphorus and potassium.

3. Onions are extremely picky about the acidity of the soil. It is almost impossible to get a harvest of full-fledged large heads on acidic lands. If such land is on your site, then in the fall it is required to carry out measures to alkalinize it, by introducing dolomite flour or fluff lime. The soil and increased portions of plant ash are well deoxidized. Application rates depend on the initial indicators of the chemical composition of the soil.

4. To obtain onions on a turnip, use sets for planting. Before sowing, it is advisable to pickle the planting material for 20 minutes by immersing it in a low-borne solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulfate. In such a simple way, you will destroy the pathogens of crops and pest larvae present on the set.

5. To help seedlings germinate as quickly as possible, trim off the tops before planting in open ground.

6. Pour some table salt into the prepared seed furrows. This product helps prevent onion flies from infesting the beds.

7. Place carrot beds next to the onions, or plant both crops on the same plantation, alternating rows one or two apart. The pungent aroma of carrots scares off the onion fly, and the phytoncides of onion feathers mask the smell of carrot tops that attract carrot flies. Thus, both cultures grow in the neighborhood for mutual benefit.

8. Don't forget to feed the onions. Only three dressings during the growing season will help in the formation of large heads. The introduction of nutrient compositions under the root is carried out only after abundant planned irrigation, otherwise the root system of the seedlings will not be able to assimilate bioactive compounds.

a. The first feeding for onions. Performed during the development phase of two feathers. In the bucket water is diluted with a glass of bird droppings or a liter of slurry, 20 g of double superphosphate (the granules are pre-soaked in warm water) and one glass of plant ash or stove soot.

b. Second dressing for onions. It is carried out 15 days after the first. 10 g of carbamide, 30 g of superphosphate and 5 g of potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate are dissolved in a bucket of water.

c. The third dressing for onions. Performed in late June - early July. The solution is prepared from mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium, for example, using potassium monophosphate (20 g / bucket of water). Nitrogen substances in the middle of the growing season are contraindicated for the plant, since they stimulate the growth of tops to the detriment of the formation of bulbs.

9. Watering of the onion plantation is organized only during drought (1-2 times a week). Watering is completely stopped 3 weeks before the expected harvesting date of the bulbs.

10. Harvesting must be done in a timely manner. The heads should be dug out before the onset of the August rains. Excess moisture in the bulbs reduces the keeping quality of the crop at times.

11. After the bulbs have been dug up, they must be dried thoroughly for at least 3 weeks, spreading them in one layer on a canvas cloth in a well-ventilated place, for example, under a shed or in the attic. Before laying for long-term storage, the heads are cleaned of adhering dirt and the dried stem is cut off, leaving hemp from 8 to 10 cm.Dry tops are not cut off only if the crop is planned to be stored in braids.

12. Onions stored warm or cold must be inspected regularly to remove rotting heads or sprouting turnips. This will prevent spoilage of the remaining bulbs.

Use these secrets of growing large onionsso that he pleases with abundant yields every year! See you!

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