Raspberries are my family's favorite berry. In summer, we enjoy using it fresh, in winter we brew healthy tea from drying, but most of it is spent on making jam. Despite the fact that the plant belongs to crops that do not require a special approach, I had to learn all the tricks of growing a rich harvest of large and juicy berries.
Gradually, I increase my raspberry tree, planting bushes annually. It is with the choice of the right place for planting and preparation of the beds that the path to harvesting begins.
My raspberry tree is located at the edge of the site. I chose the highest and sunniest side at the same time.
In early April, I begin to prepare the beds. Bushes with a shallow root system require loose, soft, oxygenated and nutrient-rich acidic soil. The technology is very simple, the composition of the soil includes the most accessible components.
At the first stage, I dig a trench for two bayonets of a shovel in depth and in breadth, approximately 40 * 40 cm.
Then I consistently fill the trench with layers: humus (2 buckets / m²), sand (0.5 buckets / m²), fertilizers (100 g / m²).
Humus or rotted manure is an organic part of my raspberry nutrient medium. It makes the soil more fertile, absorbs and retains moisture well, does not compress, providing respiration of the root system.
With sand, I provide unhindered water leaving during irrigation or rain deep into the depths, as well as a loose soil structure.
I make a complex of fertilizers from nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, taking in equal proportions.
Having filled up all the components in the trench, I mix them by digging.
As the last step in preparing the garden bed, I fill the trench with the fertile soil that was dug. The level of the new bed should be slightly higher than the rest of the plot.
Now it remains to wait for the warming and plant young raspberry bushes.
Many of my friends summer residents, when forming raspberry beds, make a number of mistakes:
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How to cook tomato beds
By Olga · Published 04.26.2019 · Updated 04.26.2019
The yield of tomatoes and the quality of grown fruits directly depend on the structure and fertility of the soil.... Competently prepared beds with the introduction of minerals and valuable organic matter allow plants to quickly take root, actively move into growth, bloom in a timely manner and begin to bear fruit.
Choose for growing tomatoes only lit areas. Even the slightest shading during daylight hours can lead to a decrease in yields and become an additional risk factor for the development of dangerous late blight and other diseases. If possible, arrange the rows of seedlings from south to north, thus providing maximum coverage of the bushes.
Never plant tomatoes in one place from year to year, as pathogens accumulate in the soil fungal and bacterial diseases, activated with the arrival of heat. Also, tomatoes are not planted in areas where other nightshades grew in the previous season - eggplants, potatoes, sweet peppers, tobacco, since they have common pests and diseases. And you will learn about the best neighbors for tomatoes from of this article.
Preparing the soil for planting
Usually, soil preparation for planting begins in the fall, so at the time of planting the seedlings everything should be ready. For digging (plowing), add "ripe" compost or humus, 4-5 kg per square meter. If mineral fertilizers are used, it is better to apply them before spring tillage to a depth of about 20 cm. It is recommended to apply 10-15 g of urea, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium chloride per square meter.
Fertile soil rich in organic matter is best suited for growing tomatoes. To get a good harvest, it is important to follow the principles of crop rotation. It is recommended to plant tomatoes (which belong to the nightshade family) after other nightshades (potatoes, eggplant, pepper, physalis, tobacco) no earlier than 2-3 years later.
Preparing the beds in the garden
If work in the garden begins in early spring, then work on the beds is carried out a little later. But before sowing seeds or replanting seedlings to a permanent place, you need to prepare the soil. First of all, it is important to disinfect the soil, in which pathogenic microorganisms usually accumulate with regular use. Annual agrotechnical, biological and chemical tillage helps prevent the development of fungal infections.
Fertilizing is also an important step in soil preparation so that your green pets develop and bear fruit properly. In the spring, special attention should be paid to nitrogen fertilizers. They dissolve well in water and are quickly absorbed by plants. In addition, it is simply not recommended to bring them in in the fall. If you are counting on a rich harvest, then do not forget about phosphate fertilizers, which contribute to the setting of fruits and berries. Potash fertilizers will help plants better resist diseases and adverse weather conditions.
Basic rules for applying mineral fertilizers.
If the soil in your area is too acidic, remember to lime it. But never combine lime application and manure fertilization. Insoluble compounds that form as a result of a chemical reaction between these two fertilizers are absolutely useless for plants. Vegetables will be nutritionally deficient despite your best efforts.
And in conclusion, some useful advice from experienced gardeners on how to prepare the beds in the fall for planting in the spring. Firstly, all preparatory work must be completed before the start of the rainy season, so that the soil does not have time to get wet deeper than 10 cm.Secondly, you should not dig the ground in wet weather, because in this case, instead of loosen it, you on the contrary, compact the top layer. Thirdly, do not try to complete all the preparatory work in one fell swoop. It is better to do this gradually - 2-3 beds a day. This will save energy and perform the preparation more thoroughly and efficiently!