Rules for planting and caring for viburnum

Rules for planting and caring for viburnum

The beautiful viburnum can be found more and more often in gardens, in summer cottages and on city streets. The plant is unpretentious, does not require special care. In addition to decorative qualities, viburnum has many medicinal properties.

Features of planting viburnum in the fall

Planting and caring for the plant does not require special difficulties and difficulties. Viburnum grows well on neutral and weak acidity soils (pH 5.5-6.5). Sand, peat and podzolic soil are not suitable. The depth of the ground is at least one meter.

Kalina prefers that the site of its location is well lit, but it grows well in shady places. According to some experts, viburnum in the shade attracts pests less.

Viburnum is planted both in the spring, when the leaves did not appear, and in the fall, when the leaves have already fallen off. Before planting, the land is dug up and freed from weeds. Fertile soil does not need organic fertilization. Fertilize poor soil just before planting.

It is better to buy seedlings with closed roots. They do not dry out and take root well. The cuttings must be more than 20 cm in height.

Before planting, a recess with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of half a meter is dug. The distance between the pits should be at least one and a half meters. The soil from the hole is mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers. One recess requires:

  • humus or peat (10 l);
  • potassium sulfate (1/2 cup);
  • superphosphate (1 glass);
  • dolomite flour (1 glass);
  • urea (2 tbsp. l.)

Everything is thoroughly mixed and poured 2/3 into the recess. Then the soil mixture is poured with 3-4 buckets of water. For 6-7 days, the fossa is moistened. During planting, the remaining mixture is poured into the hole so that a tubercle appears, the height of which should be 10-12 cm. A seedling is placed on the tubercle in an upright position, sprinkled with soil and compacted. Then a hole is made in the near-trunk circle and watering is performed.

It is necessary to loosen and mulch the soil around the bush. This protects the root system from overheating and reduces the appearance of weeds.

Mulching is carried out in late spring when the soil is warm and moist. Mulch in the form of crushed tree bark, wood chips or peat is scattered around the bush.

Benefits of autumn planting and transplanting in open ground

It is known that viburnum can be planted both in spring (late April - early May) and in autumn (September). According to experienced gardeners, planting a plant in the fall has some advantages:

  • planting is best done in early September, so that the seedlings have time to take root;
  • in the fall, the soil around the plant will settle, become dense;
  • there is no intense heat in the autumn period, therefore, there is no need for frequent watering;
  • a seedling planted in the fall, vegetates in the spring, as the roots develop, and the bud is sleeping at this time, thanks to this, young shoots develop more actively;
  • in the spring there are many things to do in the garden and garden, so in the fall, when there is more free time, you can start planting viburnum.

It is very important not to miss the planting time in the fall. It is advisable to plant at a temperature not lower than +4 degrees, otherwise, during frosts, a weak plant will freeze. It is necessary to use covering material in the form of sawdust, roofing material, peat.

Care: how to plant and prune bushes?

You need to take care of the viburnum as well as for other cultivated plants: weed control, regular watering, loosening the soil in the near-trunk circle, mulching, cutting and forming the crown, fighting diseases and pests.

Watering

Watering is carried out in the evening, shedding the soil by 40 cm. Adult bushes should be watered during the growing season and when the berries ripen.

Top dressing

Usually, dressings are made dry, in hot dry weather it is better to dissolve them in water. You need to feed the plant several times:

  1. In early spring, when young leaves bloom. Urea is introduced (2 tbsp. L.);
  2. Fertilizer is applied just before flowering. Wood ash (1/2 liter) or potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons) should be scattered;
  3. Feeding is carried out after flowering. Nitrophoska or nitroammofoska is introduced (2 tbsp. L.).
  4. Liquid dressing is applied in October, when the crop has already been harvested. Potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons) and superphosphate (3 tablespoons) are added to ten liters of water. Each viburnum bush requires two buckets of fertilizer

Reproduction and cultivation

Viburnum can be propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, cuttings and layering. After reproduction, shoots can be transplanted into open ground.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Usually this method is used if the species of viburnum is valuable and needs to be preserved or transplanted to another place. The plant is divided into several parts. At least 3 buds remain on each part. Separation and transplanting is done in spring or autumn.

Propagation by cuttings

In June or early July, when the branches are flexible, harvesting of cuttings begins. When cutting, it is necessary to monitor the number of nodes, there should be at least three of them. The length of the planting material is about 10 cm. An oblique cut runs along the bottom of the cutting, the leaves are cut off. It is advisable to hold the material with drugs to accelerate growth (Kornevin). Then place the cuttings in a greenhouse, deepening 2 cm into the ground. The soil mixture is prepared from the same parts of sand and peat. When rooting, the greenhouse is covered with plastic wrap or glass.

Within three weeks, the temperature in the room should be high: + 27- + 30 degrees, humidity - 70 percent.

Cuttings require constant watering. Before winter, rooted sprouts are insulated. Sawdust, roofing felt, peat are used as a covering material. In the spring, the planting material is planted for permanent residence.

How to propagate by layering?

Grooves break out near the viburnum bush in spring. Young shoots are leaning from the bush and sprinkled with soil and fixed with wire. The tip should remain on the surface. Slightly above the filled soil, an incision is made on the shoot. By autumn, the layers will give roots, young shoots will appear on the buds. The shoots are separated from the adult plant and transplanted to a new location.

Seed propagation is not encouraged by gardeners, since a long period of time passes before germination. The technology is somewhat more complex. How you see, viburnum can multiply in a variety of ways

Pruning

You can prune the plant both in autumn and early spring. Kalina definitely needs sanitary and rejuvenating pruning. In addition, pruning forms the volume of the plant. Pruning in early spring each year limits the size of the shrub and increases the light in the crown. Weak diseased branches are also removed.

Next, the old 7-9-year-old branches are cut out, which have already borne fruit. Leave only strong, annuals. Low flowering bushes are cut completely. Stumps remain, protruding 15-20 cm above the ground. Sleeping buds give young shoots and viburnum very soon recovers.

If the plant is grown for fruit, the inflorescences at the edge of the shoots should not be shortened to avoid loss of yield.

When the bush is not cut for a long time, it thickens, loses its beauty. Rejuvenating pruning is done after the kidneys wake up. Old branches are cut or cut with pruning shears, small hemp five centimeters long remain. Young shoots appear from the stumps. Over the summer, weak branches are removed on the shoots.

Formation

Unlike other fruit shrubs, viburnum does not require frequent pruning of shoots. Shoots are usually removed once a year.

To grow a viburnum with a bush, in the early spring of the second year, all branches must be removed by 2-3 nodes. When the length of the shoots reaches 30 cm, pinch the growth points.

When a plant is formed by a bush, in the spring all branches are removed by 2-3 nodes. Growth points are pinched when they reach a length of 30 cm. Awakened buds will give young shoots. They will be the main component of the plant. IN in subsequent years, systematic pruning of the viburnum will form the desired size of the bush.

If you want to see the viburnum as a tree, at the beginning of the formation you need to leave the vertical central trunk. The rest of the side branches should be removed. The shoots around the bush are also cut off. After 2-3 years, a trunk with a height of about two meters will form. The crown is formed by pinching the growth point. The tip of the guidewire is cut off and several buds appear at the cut site. Thanks to this procedure, the tree becomes branched.

It is not difficult to grow viburnum on your own site. You need to be able to competently take care of her. Then the plant will delight you with magnificent flowers and beautiful healthy berries.


Aubrieta is an evergreen plant, which is a low-growing shrub. From the outside, it looks like a carpet covers the garden area. The leaves have different shapes, resembling a lancet or ellipse. Their color is usually gray-green. The flowers are small, consist of four petals, and do not exceed 1 cm in diameter. They can be ordinary, double or semi-double, differ in shades.

Among the many varieties and types of plants, the most popular are distinguished:

  • Deltoid shaving. Blue or purple flowers appear in May and delight the eye of gardeners for a month. It is the most common type of plant, which laid the foundation for almost all existing varieties. Due to the color of the flowers, it is known as the "lilac bush". The leaves are deltoid and have denticles at the edges, usually one or two. The shrub itself grows in height by no more than 15 cm.
  • Hybrid or cultural. It blooms in spring, as if welcoming the appearance of sunny and warm days. Hybrid plants include artificially bred plants. Their flowers have a variety of shades, can be red, white, violet, pink, purple. For example, the Audrey variety has several forms, there are buds of raspberry color or dark purple. Flowers grow so densely, resembling soaring clouds, the names Giant Waterfall, Cote d'Azur speak for themselves. Some varieties have two-tone foliage.
  • Graying shaved. Its leaves are distinguished by a silvery color, the flowers are usually light lilac.
  • Aubrieta Columnar. Its stems are dense, thick, fluffy pile is visible on the leaves. The flowers are also quite large, differing from other varieties and species. They are usually pink or red.
  • Aubrieta Campbell has large lilac flowers in various shades. They appear in May and last more than a month.

Stunning Campbell Variety


Landing

To achieve a blooming lilac garden (syringaria), it is best to use ready-made seedlings for planting.

The most suitable for lilac would be open and sunny place... In conditions of shade or even partial shade, the plant grows slower, blooms less abundantly, loses its shape - the foliage is less dense, the shoots are stretched out.

The planting should not be thickened. Strongly branched and tall varieties are best planted singly. Smaller ones feel good in alley and group plantings of 3-5 bushes.

  • In a single planting, the distance between plants should be not less than 2.5-3 m.
  • In alleys and group - not less than 1.5 m.
  • For hedges - can be reduced up to 1 m... Please note that with a dense planting, flowering will not be plentiful.

Try to choose a place protected from strong winds, especially for less winter-hardy varieties.

Also refrain from lowlands, in which melt water accumulates in spring, rainwater in autumn, and wetlands. This is due to the fact that the roots of lilacs can rot and die off due to stagnant water.

The best option would be a small elevation with good drainage and a low groundwater table - no closer than 1.5 m to the water surface. Try to place lilacs on gentle southern or southeastern slopes.

The plant can also be planted on a flat area without hills. In this case, take care of a good drainage system.


It is strange that this deciduous shrub, amazing in its beauty, can not be found so often on the personal plots of Russian gardeners.

But it looks so much like an amazing plant that came from some fairy tale specifically to decorate the standard landscape around your summer cottage or cottage.

In addition, the skumpia is very unpretentious. It is not demanding on the soil, it is drought-resistant and perfectly tolerates winter frosts down to -35 degrees. And it doesn't take much space on the site.

Apparently, many amateur gardeners simply do not know about it, because little is said or written about it. But this plant, unlike anyone else, is really amazingly beautiful!

Therefore, we decided to tell you how to grow a scumpia on your site, which for many years can become the main decoration of your ornamental garden, because its life expectancy exceeds a hundred years.

SO WHAT IS THIS PLANT - SCUMPIA?

Before we talk about how to grow a scumpia, let's get to know it better. She belongs to the Sumakhov family. It occurs in the form of a shrub or a small tree (depending on the variety) from 1.5 to 3 m in height.

The trunk is covered with uneven brown bark, the branches are burgundy-red or golden-green, completely devoid of bark. The leaves are long (up to 8 cm) elongated with an uneven toothed edge. They can be painted in bright scarlet or golden-green colors.

Scumpia inflorescences are paniculate and loose. In length they reach 40 cm. They consist of medium-sized bisexual flowers of various colors - from golden yellow to bright scarlet, burgundy and purple-violet.

From a distance, each inflorescence resembles an airy whipped wig (hence one of the names of the scumpia - "wig tree"), and since there are a lot of them on the branches, the whole tree looks like it consists of pink, gold or burgundy foam.

Flowering begins at the end of May and lasts until the end of June. If the weather is hot, then it can be repeated in July. But even after its completion, the tree does not lose its decorative effect.

The fruits of the scumpia are not edible. They represent a medium-sized drupe with a long stalk. After ripening, the fruit turns dark purple.

In autumn, when the brightest flowers wither and natural colors begin to fade, the scumpia literally explodes the color palette of the surrounding landscape with bright, multi-colored shades of its foliage.

This picture is simply mesmerizing. It is even difficult to describe it in words. Just imagine a bush "blazing" in the rays of the midday sun with gold and all shades of the red spectrum: from bright orange, scarlet, blood-red, burgundy to purple and burgundy-brown.

And how amazing, just fabulous, the skumpia, sprinkled with the first snowball, looks! She can stand such a beauty under the snow until mid-December, as her dense glossy leaves stay on the branches for a long time.

There are more than two dozen types of scumpia. The most frost-resistant is American scumpia. It grows well in northern climates and tolerates severe frosts well.

Most often, gardeners grow its variety - tanning skumpia. There are not so many varieties of it. The most popular and most beautiful of them is the variety Royal purple.

This is a slow-growing bush, 1.5 m high with an unusually beautiful raspberry-pink color of flowers. It is very unpretentious, frost-resistant, not affected by pests and diseases. It is this variety that is most popular among both amateur gardeners and professionals.

European landscape designers use scumpia extensively in their exquisite compositions.Moreover, there it acts as a solitary, accent culture, capable of overshadowing any even very spectacular plant with its unusual beauty.

But, paradoxically, scumpia is still widely used in industrial production. The fact is that the tissues of this plant contain large quantities of the substance fizegin - the best natural dye of bright orange color, which is used to dye products made from natural fabrics and leather.

WHERE SHE CAME FROM

Scumpia is a very ancient plant, as archaeologists find traces of it even before the Ice Age. It has many different names. Including: "wig wood", "Venetian sumac", "leather wood" and others.

The natural habitat of scumpia is very wide. Its natural thickets can be found in the temperate climate of Western Europe, North America and southern Canada, China and Western Asia.

From time immemorial, it has been growing on the territory of our country: in the European part - starting from the border of the Voronezh region and to the south. Many thermophilic species of wild scumpia can be found in the Crimea and the Caucasus.

There are natural copses of more frost-resistant species of skumpia in the South Urals and the Far East.

HOW TO GROW A SCUMPY IN YOUR LAND

Landing place. You can plant skumpia both in spring and autumn. She tolerates a transplant very well, quickly takes root and takes root. However, since the skumpia has a rather long growing season, planting dates should be strictly observed.

In the spring, this operation is carried out from the end of April to 15 May. In autumn - from 1 to 25 September.

For planting, they choose a place well-lit by the sun, but the plant normally tolerates light partial shade at midday.

Scumpia soils need fertile, light, well water and air permeable with a neutral reaction. It will normally grow on slightly alkaline ones (pH 7.0 - 7.5).

The close occurrence of groundwater and spring flooding with melt water is unacceptable for this plant. In such conditions, it will quickly die.

Also, scumpia will grow very poorly on heavy, acidic clays. In such areas, it is necessary to pre-neutralize with dolomite flour (2 kg per 6 sq. M).

Landing. Since the scumpia has a deep and branched root system, the planting holes need to be dug 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter.

To make the plant spacious and grow well in width, the distance between the seedlings is made at least 1.5 - 2 m.

All the soil from the planting pit is taken out and drainage from crushed limestone rocks 12 cm thick is laid on the bottom. Then the pits are filled with an artificially prepared mixture consisting of the upper fertile layer of rotted manure. river sand and leafy earth in equal amounts.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1.5 tablespoons of potassium sulfate) are added to each pit. Also, be sure to add wood ash (one bucket for two plants).

The plants are well watered (two watering cans under one bush) and the ground around is mulched with freshly cut grass or straw.

Watering... Until the plants are rooted, they are watered 3 times a week (if the weather is dry). For adult bushes, two plentiful waterings per month are enough (5 lei for a bush). It is important to wet the entire deep and powerful root system.

But don't get carried away. Water should not stand around the plants, otherwise the processes of decay of the root collar and roots may begin.

Fertilizer... It is due to its deep and branched root system that scumpia can extract nutrients from the lower layers of the soil.

Therefore, in the first three years after planting, she is given only one spring top dressing with nitrogen fertilizer (a solution of urea or slurry at a concentration of 1:10).

In the future, add another nitrogen dressing at the beginning of June, when flowering begins. And in the fall, some kind of ready-made mineral complex is introduced under the bushes for the autumn feeding of ornamental shrubs, in the dosages indicated on the package.

Formation... Since the scumpia is not prone to thickening, it is not necessary to thin out its crown. Only old branches (over 6 years old) are removed, and young ones are shortened by 1/3 of the length. This operation is performed in early spring before bud break.

In addition, sanitary pruning is done annually, cutting out dried, frozen and weak branches.

Scumpia is a very plastic plant. For experienced gardeners, it will not be difficult to shape its crown artistically. Young shoots will grow back quickly and take the desired shape.

But we do not advise amateurs to do this. Scumping is good without any shaping!

Shelter for the winter... It must be done without fail, otherwise the roots may freeze out. It is best to use dry leaves for shelter, with a layer of 40 cm, lay spruce branches on them in two layers and cover with some covering material, fixing its ends well with boards, bricks or other objects.

Now you know how to grow a scumpia. We highly recommend that you plant this fabulous plant on your site. You can't even imagine how beautiful your decorative landscape will become!

And the seedlings of the best scumpia variety Royal purple you can order or buy from us today!


Soil preparation

The soil should contain the optimal amount of nutrients and allow air to pass through. A suitable type of soil for a plant is loam or sandy loam, acidity - 5.5–6.5 units.

Advice! To normalize the pH, add slaked lime or dolomite flour (400-500 g per 1 m 2).

To increase the nutritional value, the soil is mixed with peat, humus, compost and mineral fertilizers. For example, 30 liters of compost is combined with 400 g of wood ash and 200 g of nitrophoska.


How to plant a beautiful linden tree and what kind of care does she need?

The mighty lime trees have a beautiful curly crown. In the summer, it turns into a fragrant, humming hive. If the site is spacious, its owners can plan in advance how and where to plant a linden. Several trees will make a great group. Tall and lush linden will become in a few decades. A young tree is plastic, the crown is given a look of choice. Linden at any age is attractive with a cozy shadow created by picturesque foliage.

The broadleaf tree formed in temperate climates millions of years ago. The most common in Europe and Asia, there are more than 30 species. It grows in a wild and cultivated form. Different types of lindens bloom from spring to mid-summer. The tree is a long-liver; there are specimens that have been growing for over 500 years. There are large linden plantations on the site of old manor estates, which are more than 200 years old.

The trunk grows up to 40 m, the crown is round, very spreading. Dark red young shoots look picturesque. Found in the Caucasus and northwest Asia.

Often the tree grows multi-stemmed, it rises up to 20 m. The frost-resistant species is widespread in the Far East and in the Amur region.

This species is also called felted linden. On the leaves on top there is a gentle downy, below - dense. A tree with a wide-pyramidal crown, high, reaching 30 m. It is found in the forests of the middle climatic zone of Russia.

In our country, this is the most common type. Usually, when they talk about linden, they mean this type of linden trees.

  • Large-leaved linden, or broadleaf

Very similar to small-leaved. The surface of the leaf blade is wider, up to 12 cm.A tree with a tent-shaped crown, from 18 to 25 m wide.It grows faster than a small-leaved one, it reaches 40 m.In a year, the seedling grows by 45 cm, and the crown spreads up to 35 cm. develops better on alkaline or slightly acidic. Distributed in Western Europe in regions with mild winters.

When buying seedlings of Manchurian and broad-leaved linden, they choose those that are grafted onto small-leaved. They develop faster and bloom from 5-6 years old.

The trunk of a small-leaved linden tree is upright, single, reaches 30 m in height. The bark is gray-brown, covered with a network of cracks. The crown is branched, dense. The alley of old lindens almost does not let the wind through, forms a kind of cozy space. There are also multi-stemmed trees. In oppressed conditions, the plant takes on the form of a shrub, which spreads through root shoots. A strong root system is based on a powerful taproot that penetrates deep into the ground.

The leaves are large, up to 17 cm, cordate, serrate. The flowers are small, collected in semi-umbels with large leaf-shaped greenish-yellow bracts. When it is time for linden to bloom, in June-July, the air is saturated with a soothing aroma that spreads over several tens of meters. The flowers are rich in nectar, this tree is the best honey plant. The seeds are small edible nuts.


Care after landing

After planting, a young tree needs proper general care. It must be watered, fertilized, loosened, and fertilized in a timely manner. But it is also necessary to take into account the fact that it blooms early, and frosts can return and destroy the flowers along with the future harvest. Therefore, it is necessary to think over measures that will save flowering from frost.

Frost control

You can protect against frost with smoke. This method is very simple and affordable. It is necessary to prepare heaps of dry manure or straw in different parts of the garden. Before the start of frost, it is advisable to set fire to these heaps in the morning hours, so that they smolder and give more smoke, which will warm the flowers.

Remember to loosen the soil around the tree trunk and remove weeds. It is advisable to carry out in the spring-summer period up to 3 loosening, not very deep.

Watering and feeding

Although cherries are considered drought tolerant, water both during the growing season and during the ripening period for high yields. The first watering is carried out immediately after flowering, the second - as soon as the berries begin to grow. For each tree during watering, you need to pour from 3 to 6 buckets of water. The volume of water also directly depends on the amount of precipitation and soil moisture.

It is necessary to carry out top dressing on time. The first - during the flowering period, and the second - after 2 weeks after the first. To prepare top dressing in 10 liters of water, it is necessary to dilute 10 g of urea, 25 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride. You can also use this option: 10 liters of mullein are diluted in 50 liters of water, 1 kg of ash is added and this mixture is infused for 5 days. Then you can use it for feeding. Pour half a bucket of the prepared solution under each trunk and immediately pour 2 buckets of water.

Pollination and pruning

If the weather is rainy and cold, the flowers will be poorly pollinated by bees. To fix this, prepare the following solution. Add 1 tbsp to a liter of boiled water. a spoonful of honey. Spray the flowers with the resulting solution. The bees will fly to the smell of honey and carry out the necessary pollination.

Pruning is carried out before young buds begin to bloom. Cut the side branches to a quarter of their length. If you did not have time to carry out the pruning and the buds began to awaken, you should not carry out the shortening.

Now you know when to plant cherries and what to do so that they take root and give a decent harvest. If planting and caring for cherries are not organized properly, they will grow poorly and not bear fruit. By doing everything right, you will be rewarded with a ripe and sweet harvest.

Cherry Pruning Video

This video will show you how to properly prune cherries.


Watch the video: Trim Your Bushes WAY Back.. Part 2